The Konponchūdō (根本中堂) is the main structure at Enryakuji, the head temple of the Japanese Tendai school of Buddhism located on Mt. Hiei. Literally translated, it means something along the lines of, “Central Hall of the Root [Teaching]”. The formal name of the structure is Ichijōshikanin (一乘止觀院), which translates as “Samatha and Vipasyana of the Single Vehicle Hall”. These two names offer a hint of the significance of this building and Tendai teachings.
The Konponchudo was originally built by Saicho (最澄), the founder of the Tendai school in Japan, in 788. The Tendai school takes the Lotus Sutra as its central text. Among the many teachings contained in that text is the most important – the reconciliation of all Buddhist teachings in the Single Vehicle (一乘 Ichijō, Skt. Ekayana). We can glean that the Root Teaching, then, is the Samatha and Vipasyana of the Single Vehicle.
The Gohonzon (御本尊Skt. ishta-devata) enshrined in the hall is Yakushinyorai (薬師如来 Skt. Tathagata Bhaisajyaguru, “Medicine Buddha”) carved by Saicho. The Yakushinyorai image is displayed only on certain occasions and is generally hidden within a closed cabinet. Among the many details of the sanctuary, in front of the statue are three oil lamps in which a flame called Fumetsu no Houtou (不滅の法灯, “Eternal Flame of the Dharma”) said to have been first lit by Saicho still burns. Along with the edifying function of Yakushinyorai, the flame and the structure of the inner hall are also teachings.
The importance of shugyō (修行, “Practice”) in Tendai cannot be overstated. While Tendai embraces the entire scope of the Buddha’s teachings, particularly the Lotus Sutra, following the instructions of Zhiyi (智顗), the third patriarch of the Tiantai school of Buddhism in China, practice and study, like two wings of a bird, are rigorously pursued in equal, maximal measure.
The flame represents the critical importance of continuous practice. To keep the flame burning for over 1200 years has required daily attention as the oil is replenished by monks three times a day. Slacking for even a part of the day would mean the extinguishment of the flame. The burning of the oil is an objective process that takes no account of excuses, of exigencies, of emergencies. As a practice, it demands uninterrupted vigilance. This embodies the Tendai approach to practice.
The structure of the inner hall presents two different teachings. On one hand, for the lay visitor, a viewing platform seats them face to face with Yakushinryorai at a level vantage. This expresses the equality of Buddha and ordinary beings. In contrast, monks carrying out practices in the hall stand in a low alley in front of the viewing platform, below Yakushinyorai. Here, monks look up in aspiration to attain Buddhahood.
Having spent decades of my life, seeking the heart of Buddhist teachings in the words of teachers and books, I grew weary of study. Although I am well aware that I still have much to learn, I felt I had come to an impasse. The practices I did carry out seemed incommensurate with what I understood about the teachings. However, I could not find the path that felt at home for me and I did not find a teacher who drew me to them. This changed in 2018 when out of the blue, I received a telephone call from Ryoei Sensei who curtly introduced herself and asked me if I wanted to study Tendai with her. She had heard about me from my friend, a student of hers, who passed on my contact information. Caught off balance but immediately recognizing the opportunity that had opened before me, I immediately accepted the invitation.
I came to Tendai Buddhism because I wanted to learn how to practice. And this is what I have been introduced to, learned a bit more at the Gyoin, and I am now learning further, endeavoring to continue every day under the tutelage of my teacher. It is not easy, and I am continuously aware of my shortcomings and how much more I could do. As imperfect as my efforts are, I keep going, step by step, day after day, week after week, month after month, year after year, decade after decade, life time after… My mind set cognizes neither beginning nor end, just the string of thought-moments that pass faster than a flicker. I seek the perfection of practice where nothing is left undone, there nothing more to do.
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